Henry Moso is astounded.
“I don’t think I can breathe,” he says, and it sounds that way, too.
It hadn’t yet been two hours since he learned he’d received a James Beard Award nomination for Rising Star Chef of the Year. It had barely sunk in, and it was audible in the young restaurateur’s voice.
Moso, 29, is the chef/owner of Kabooki Sushi and Kabooki Sushi Sand Lake. He’d announced the expansion of his Colonial venue just days ago. Now he is the only Orlando-area chef with a 2020 James Beard Award nomination, and he’s in contention for a title for which no other Central Florida nominee has previously been considered.
The Rising Star Chef of the Year Award is presented to “a chef age 30 or younger who displays an impressive talent and who is likely to make a significant impact on the industry in years to come,” according to jamesbeard.org.
One could say, in an overarching way, that Moso was groomed for this. His culinary journey began at 16, working in the family business — a Thai/sushi venue in Orlando, “trying to learn the restaurant life.”
Moso lives it these days, working seven days a week. He is almost ritualistic in habits, many of which are rooted in continuing self-education. Discuss his work and he lights up so bright you can hear it, as much as you can hear the surprise at this honor and acknowledgment.
“It makes me want to get up earlier, read more books, do more homework, dedicate more time … ” he says energetically. “I just try to improve, to do better, as a chef, as a business owner, as an individual, and challenge myself to take it all to the next level.”
He pauses, laughs, acknowledging that this is probably worthy of calling an impromptu staff meeting, then takes a deep breath.
“What a great day,” he says softly, one-part humility, one-part astonishment. “It’s a lot to take in.”
There are 30 semifinalists in the Rising Star Chef of the Year category. Will Moso be the first Orlando chef to crack into the top level, a shortlist of five? I’m crossing my fingers and toes (and making a reservation ahead of the rush).
Finalists will be announced March 25.
This story originally appeared on OrlandoSentinel.com.
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